Toerke

The monks at Ganden monastery play the opening tune to our trek across the Tibetan Plateau – 60 km from Ganden to Samye, 4 days on foot. The yakdriver on his cotton sneakers and the tough yaks waltz effortlessly through the thin air and rough terrain. We, on the other hand, need to stop every other step, lungs screaming, to gasp for air and rest our pounding hearts. It is all just a touch too steep, too stoney, too high. The planned 4 to 5 daily walking hours soon become 8. At night we fall exhausted into our cooler box tent, grateful for the welcome warmth of our little goose beds. Especially on day four, on a steep snow path, we need to explore the limits of our endurance and dig into reserves we didn’t even know we had. Freezing, teethgrinding but slightly euphoric we reach the Shung Pass at 5250 metres. From here it’s all downhill. Yes! And we’re still alive. Double yes!

All our attention goes to breathcatching and feetdragging so that we are unaware of the scorching heat of the sun burning our virgin white skin. It’s a tough trek for us nicotine hunters and beer brewers, but the panorama pearl makes it all worthwhile.

On day four we reach Samye monastery and roll, blistered and two-degree burned, into our old faithful Toyota Landcruiser. James, to the border! We pass Yamdrok Tso Lake, visis Gyantse, Shigatse and the countless protectors, mural jewels and stone prayers. Even a heathen stands speechless in front of so much god glamour.

At Everst Base Camp we shrink into dwarfhood and tickle the toes of the greatest giant on earth. With a backpack full of memories and black market Roepees we cross the Friendship Bridge. Kathmandu here we come!